Dufourspitze 4634m, PD+ II 40° (AD- III, SAC guide book)
From Monte Rosa Hut via W-ridge (PD+, exposed) to the summit, crux was a exposed, hard to protect 10m snowfilled chimney close to the summit. From the top down the N-face (AD-, fixed ropes, down climbing or 4x30m rappel) to Silbersattel.
For a detailed report refer to
hikr.org (Matze’s view well written, german only)
The bridge from Gornergrat to Gornergletscher
Our goal of the day allways in sight: The new Monte Rosa Hut (mighty Liskamm in the background)
Relaxed glacier hike in an absolutely stunning scenery
Glacial pollish determines the way up to the hut
The place to stay: The interior of the Monte Rosa Hut
On the west ridge of Dufourspitze (Liskamm at the rear)
Mostly easy scrambling
Putting the rope away for the crux: Too exposed and bad to protect.
..technically less demanding than expected..
.. but quite exposed (same section, view from above)
Last step towards the summit
Last meters on the airy ridge with famous 4000m peaks aligned in the surrounding area
At the summit 😀
Summit view towards Signalkuppe 4554m
Last section on the ridge
getting ready for the descent
Heli dropping supplies for Rif. Margherita
First fixed rope
It took us about one hour get pass this section because of the (unnecessary complicated) rope work of 5 other parties.
t o t a l chaos
Nice and good-natured icefall at the upper section of the Monte-Rosa glacier
Good track and stable snow bridges
finally close the Hut
The mothership (new Monte Rosa Hut)